These are the most effective steps for morning and night.
The right routine for your skin type is the foundation for any healthy, glowing complexion, no matter what your age. We know — easier said than done. With so many products out on the market, and an overload of the sometimes questionable advice out there via social media and elsewhere, it may be hard to know where to begin. Take, for instance, the “morning shed”. The trend suggests people apply layers upon layers of skincare products before bed and “shed” them in the morning. While that may work for some, this is a classic example of more not always being better, and trying this trend could cause irritation to the skin. Another trend you may want to skip: the 10-step skincare routine. For many skin types-sensitive included-it’s better to keep it simple.
But what, exactly, is a simple yet hard-working routine? We’ve got you covered. We cut through the clutter-consulting top dermatologists-to help you build the best, most effective skincare routine for all skin types-from aging, dry and sensitive to combination, oily and acne-prone. Complexion perfection starts now.
- Ashley Magovern, M.D., Manhattan Beach, CA-based dermatologist
- Whitney Bowe, M.D., New York City-based dermatologist
- Jennifer David, D.O., dermatologist, Philadelphia
- Marnie Nussbaum, M.D., dermatologist, New York City
- Dr. Lydia Williams, co-founder, Lab Director at Autoinfu Medical
- Tonya McLeod, M.D., dermatologist, Charlotte, North Carolina
- Mona Gohara, M.D., dermatologist, Connecticut
- Y. Claire Chang, M.D., dermatologist, UnionDerm in New York City
How do I get started with a daily skincare routine?
To get the most out of your daily skincare routine, no matter what skin type you have, you should start with three basic steps, according to Ashley Magovern, M.D., dermatologist and owner and founder of Manhattan Dermatology in Manhattan Beach, California:
- Cleanse
- Treat
- Moisturize
You probably understand that cleanse refers to washing your face and moisturize refers to putting hydration into the skin, but what does “treat” mean? Well, aside from keeping your complexion in tip-top shape, the goal of any skin-care routine is to address problem areas. To treat means adding serums that are packed full with beneficial skincare ingredients including vitamin C, retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, among others depending on your skin type and what you want to see. “Adding a middle step in between the cleansing and moisturizing components is really important,” Dr. Magovern says. “It can make all the difference after some time in the health, appearance, and aging of your skin.”
There are a few other bonus steps one can do depending on needs and time of day, such as applying toner, sunscreen, and eye cream. These are detailed below.
Hang in there! Good things come to those who wait-and that includes complex skin-care routines. Even the best skin-care products take some time to actually work, so don’t expect results overnight. If you commit to a consistent daily routine, you can likely expect to see some benefits within six to 12 weeks-and it can often take at least three to four months before you will know if your routine is really working.
Steps of Morning Skincare Routine
1. Cleanser
The first step of any skin-care routine is a face wash, which clears the skin of impurities and excess oils that clog pores and dull skin. But be gentle: “Many people cleanse too often or use a cleanser that’s overly harsh, which will actually break down your skin’s protective barrier,” Dr. Magovern says. If you have dry or sensitive skin, try washing only at night and rinsing your face with water in the morning.
The best face-wash formulas will clean your skin without stripping it of its healthy oils. “A [good] sulfate- and soap-free cleanser for the face will be pH-balanced and gentle to maintain the skin’s barrier without stripping,” says Whitney Bowe, M.D., a New York City dermatologist and author of The Beauty of Dirty Skin. To cleanse your face daily, here’s how to choose a face cleanser according to your skin type:
Oily skin: A foaming or gel cleanser can have your skin adequately rid of dirt and oil; the active ingredients to look for in your cleanser would be niacinamide and salicylic acid, which will help regulate and remove excess oil from the skin.
Acne-prone skin: Use a foaming cleanser that contains active acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or sulfur.
Dry skin: Look for a lotion, cream, oil, or balm formulation that is packed with hydrating ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and botanical oils.
Sensitive skin: Go for a fragrance-free formula that is non-irritating to the skin or micellar water, a gentle cleanser that contains tiny particles called micelles, which trap impurities and lift them away without dehydrating the skin.
2. Toner
TonerSkin care liquids that are applied to dry skin using one’s fingers, a cotton ball or cloth after cleansing and before using leave-on skin-care treatments like serums and moisturizers. A good toner can help make sure that your skin is completely clean and free of dirt, as well as providing it with an additional boost of active ingredients.
You don’t necessarily need a toner, but swiping one on can be a great way to refresh skin, remove any residual debris and balance pH, Dr. Magovern says. Today’s toners are far more advanced than the drying alcohol- and astringent-based formulas of yesteryear and come packed with skin-boosting benefits that leave skin glowing. Here are the ingredients you’ll want to look for, based on your skin type:
- If you have acne-prone skin, then make sure to use a toner that is hydroxy acid-based to help increase cell turnover, which will help to unclog pores.
- For dry or sensitive skin, a hydrating toner or its cousin, the essence, in an alcohol-free formula would be appropriate, with ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid to calm the skin.
- For combination skin, opt for gentle exfoliants, hydration boosters, and antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and green tea that may fight free radicals and forbid skin damage.
- In oily skin, look for astringents such as alcohol or witch hazel that may have tightened up the pores.
3. Serum
A serum tailored to your skin concerns can treat and protect, doling out concentrated doses of actives that help everything from wrinkles and dark spots to dryness. Just be sure to read the labels carefully, since some serums are best used in the morning, while others are ideal for nighttime.
One serum anyone can benefit from in the morning? An antioxidant serum, which will prevent the formation of free radicals and lessen signs of aging over time. Vitamin C is considered the gold standard antioxidant. “Everyone should use vitamin C, no matter what age,” Dr. Magovern says. “It helps reverse a lot of the skin damage we get from the sun and pollution.
For darker individuals, hyperpigmentation is also a reality, and vitamin C serum can be similarly applied in the morning to help lighten dark spots, says Jennifer David, D.O., a Philadelphia-based dermatologist and founder of Skin & Scripts Virtual Dermatology.
In addition to antioxidant serums, here are several anti-aging serums you can try to target wrinkles, fine lines and more:
Hyaluronic acid: This draws moisture into the skin to combat dryness and dullness but also gives a nice plumping effect to the skin.
Niacinamide: The brightener is a derivative of vitamin B3 that helps balance skin tone, improves collagen production, reduces inflammation, among other things.
Retinoids: Dermatologists love this vitamin A derivative because it encourages cell turnover, promoting healthy collagen production and reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Retinol works best at night.
Peptides: They represent the amino acid fragments of collagen. They stimulate the production of collagen and hence, they can be used to reduce lines and thinning of skin.
4. Eye Cream
Eye creams are unique from face creams because they are specifically targeted to the delicate eye area, which ages more quickly than the rest of your face-and thus fall into the “treat” category, too. If you’re concerned about fine lines, wrinkles, a lack of firmness, dark circles or undereye bags and puffiness, you may want to incorporate an eye treatment product into your routine.
For the treatment of dark circles, find a formula that contains niacinamide or vitamin C. In the case of puffiness, a caffeine-based preparation is ideal, according to Marnie Nussbaum, M.D., a New York City dermatologist, and a clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College. For Crow’s feet and for sagging, use an eye cream based on peptides and retinol. Vitamin K can help brighten dark undereye circles and hyaluronic acid hydrates dry skin,” says Deanne Mraz Robinson, M.D., a dermatologist in Westport, CT and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. To treat multiple eye area issues, shop for a combo of these ingredients targeted to your needs.
At bedtime and in the morning, gently tap a formula targeted to your eye-area concern with your finger onto the orbital bone, without pulling the delicate skin. This can cause further damage to the area.
5. Moisturizer
Face moisturizers are the next in line, which help in maintaining softness and hydration in your skin, also helping in strengthening its barrier. If your skin is oily or acne-prone, you may want to use a lighter moisturizer during the daytime-a lotion or gel that will absorb into your skin quickly and will not pill under makeup. But if your skin is dry, use a thicker formula, like a cream. Whatever the skin type may be, dermatologists recommend it either way throughout the year because hydrating is important for keeping the skin fresh and healthy. “Look for ingredients such as ceramides or hyaluronic acid, since they are the building blocks of moisture retention in skin,” Dr. David says.
Pro tip: Massage moisturizer in as you apply it, which will improve its absorption, plus boost circulation.
Here’s how to choose a moisturizer formula, based on your skin type:
Dry skin: A thick cream loaded with emollients, humectants, ceramides and occlusives is what you need to satiate dryness.
Oily or acne-prone skin: Lightweight lotions or gel-based preparations that are labeled “nocomedogenic” or “oil-free.”
Sensitive skin: Look for hypoallergenic products free of common irritants, such as fragrance and alcohol.
6. Sunscreen
Dermatologists uniformly agree: Sunscreen is the most important step in any skin-care routine, regardless of skin type and age. “If you don’t wear sunscreen, you might as well not do any of the other steps,” Dr. Magovern says. The sun is the number one reason skin ages prematurely.” The damage isn’t only cosmetic, no matter what your skin color: “People of color can and do get skin cancer,” Dr. David says. “Plus, if you’re treating hyperpigmentation without daily SPF use, it’s like taking two steps forward and one step backward.
Good to know: Sun protection applies even when you plan on spending your days indoors, since UV can still manage to filter through the windows.
Smoothen on nickel-sized dollop of broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher face sunscreen as the last step in your morning skin care routine, extending to the neck and the back of your hands, within 30 minutes before you go out. If you want to lessen the steps involved in a routine, then apply a daily moisturizer with SPF instead of applying it separately with a moisturizer.
There are two major types of formulas for sunscreen:
Chemical sunscreens include active chemical ingredients, such as avobenzone and homosalate, which absorb UV when it hits the skin.
Physical sunscreens use mineral active ingredients, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, designed to sit on the skin’s surface and reflect UV radiation.
Some SPF formulas combine both chemical and physical active ingredients. For sensitive skin, dermatologists typically advise mineral and physical zinc-oxide sunscreens, though in GH Beauty Lab testing, the majority of chemical sunscreens have not caused irritation. If you have oily skin, look for non-comedogenic, oil-free serum, lotion, or gel formulas. If skin is dry, avoid spray or gel sunscreens that may contain alcohol. The big difference is that darker skin tones prefer chemical sunscreens because, on most occasions, the physical formulas leave a white cast over the skin, although brands have recently begun creating mineral formulations that don’t have a white and chalky appearance.
Night Skincare Routine Steps
It’s key to switch up your skincare routine at night-and not just because you don’t need SPF while you snooze. Evening is a great time to hydrate or treat complexion concerns since your skin regenerates and repairs itself while you snooze, Dr. Magovern says. (Hence the term “beauty sleep.”)
You’ll still follow the same easy three steps-cleanse, treat and moisturize-but at night, the routine will look a little different.
1. Cleanser
First, take away the day’s makeup and grime. Begin by applying a separate makeup remover, if necessary, to remove any cosmetics. Cleansers are not necessarily designed to dissolve makeup, especially on eyes, and haven’t done so effectively in our testing,” says Dr. Lydia Williams co-founder, Lab Director at Autoinfu Medical. Then, follow up with the same cleanser as in the A.M., working from the inside of the face upward, then outward and downward along the hairline and perimeter just below the chin, she says.
2. Toner
Toner: If you use a toner, use it here just as you did in the morning. Overall, toners are liquids and are applied first out of heavier formulas such as serums and moisturizers since they need to penetrate into skin.
3. Serum or Treatment
Nighttime serves as a good opportunity to use active ingredient products that slough off dead skin cells or promote cell turnover in their sleep, such as alpha hydroxy acids including glycolic acid or retinol,” Dr. Magovern says. These even out texture, brighten skin and reduce pores. (A few serums can be day and nighttime; follow packaging instructions.)
4. Eye Cream
Gently pat an eye cream, or a small amount of your face serum or treatment, around your eyes. “You don’t have to use a lot, but if you start training your skin to tolerate more active products around the eye, you’ll see more change,” Dr. Magovern says.
5. Acne Treatment
If you currently have a blemish-a stray one, a constellation of them-apply an acne treatment now. For more chronic breakouts, be proactive by using an acne serum all over your face rather than spot treating as pimples pop up, says Dr. Magovern. “If you just treat the spot, you’ll get acne right next to it if your skin is clogged,” she says. “You’re getting breakouts because oil is building up, so be consistent with your regimen to keep pores all over your face clear.” If using a retinoid, let skin adjust before trying acne formulas like salicylic acid.
6. Night Cream
One of the most important acts of moisturizing, especially at night, is offering that barrier that locks in skin’s natural hydration and active ingredients against moisture loss that happens while sleeping. You can apply the same non-SPF day moisturizer at night, but for deeper hydration or targeted anti-aging benefits that help repair damage from the day, opt for a night-specific formula.
“Where regular moisturizers focus on improving the natural moisture barrier of the skin only, night creams contain active ingredients that help improve the skin beyond adding moisture,” explains Tonya McLeod, M.D., a dermatologist in Charlotte, North Carolina.
7. Face Oil
This isn’t a required step, but if your skin still feels dry, applying a face oil can be an effective way to support retaining moisture overnight. “A lot of people think that if they have acne or oily skin, they’ll break out with an oil, but it’s just not true,” explains Dr. Magovern. “It can actually really help soften skin.” For a nourishing boost, pat on a face oil as a last step once the rest of your leave-on skincare products dry — just be sure to apply by pressing it into your skin, not rubbing it in.
More Skincare Routine Questions
Should I invest in any special tools or skincare gadgets?
You don’t need anything beyond a basic washcloth to execute a basic skincare routine, but a few at-home skin tools and gadgets can provide added benefit. These are some worth considering:
- Facial cleansing brushes
- LED face masks
- Gua sha tools
- Facial steamers
Should I be using a face mask regularly?
Face masks will rejuvenate your skin instantly. Once or twice a week, apply it to your fresh but dry face, making sure not to get any on the eyes and lips unless the product is appropriately designed for it. Remove according to package instructions and follow with leave-on skincare as usual or depending on skin type.
Whether you’re doing a DIY skin treatment, a sheet mask, or an overnight mask, you want to make sure you’re picking the right face mask for your skin type:
Oily skin: Use a mask that contains ingredients such as clay or charcoal as it will absorb oil.
Dry skin: Look for words on the label such as “hydrating,” “moisturizing,” or “nourishing” and ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, plant oils and butters.
Sensitive skin: Use anti-inflammatory ingredients such as aloe and oat.
Combination/balanced: Have a face mask that targets your current skin goals, or treat different areas with different masks.
Now, about exfoliation?
Facial exfoliation is a process that removes the skin’s outermost layer of dead skin cells to smooth out, brighten and purify the skin — and yet a GH survey found nearly half of women forgo it in their skincare routine altogether. There are three key forms of exfoliation, each playing a distinct role that works differently to suit varied skin types, concerns and needs.
- Physical exfoliants
- Chemical exfoliants
- Combo exfoliants
Physical exfoliants are used two to three times a morning or evening over cleansed skin. As for chemical ones, they can be applied once in the morning or evening over cleansed skin for sensitive and dry skin and up to three times a week for other skin types. Combo exfoliants range from once a week up to once daily, but one should follow instructions on a particular product.
Does this Skin Care Routine Work for All Skin Types?
Yes, it is a good general guideline to get started on, no matter what skin type. Just remember, it’s just that-a guideline, and one that should be, and can be, tweaked and tailored according to what your complexion needs. What exactly works for your skin might not work for another person’s skin, and vice versa. It may take a little trial and error to find the perfect daily routine, but here are some correct tools to get going and on your merry way to healthy, glowing skin.
What’s the best skincare routine for rosacea?
“Keep it simple,” says Mona Gohara, M.D., a dermatologist in Connecticut and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. “Rosacea-prone skin is sensitive and subject to flushing, irritation and redness.” She suggests using a gentle nonsoap cleanser, a barrier-repairing moisturizer and sunscreen daily. “Avoid potentially irritating ingredients such as AHAs, BHAs and retinols,” she adds.
What would be the most appropriate skin care for combination skin?
“For combination skin, a well-rounded skincare routine should hydrate without feeding oiliness,” says Y. Claire Chang, M.D., a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City and Clinical Instructor at Mount Sinai Hospital. A gentle face cleanser for the morning is a must, followed by an “essence to comfort and normalize skin”, antioxidant serum, and “lightweight, oil-free moisturizer” -with sunscreen or finish with a separate face SPF-, she says.
“Gentle exfoliation two to three times per week can also help prevent clogged pores and even out skin texture,” says Dr. Chang. For night, repeat same cleanser and essence, then swap in treatment serum-such as one with retinol-to address individual skin concerns (acne, signs of aging)-and follow with a night cream and eye cream if desired. “Apply a finger-tip-sized amount to the face, paying special attention to drier areas and lightly coating oilier zones,” she says.
What’s the best anti-aging skincare routine for wrinkles?
In addition to centering the routine around hydrating and protecting skin, the GH Beauty Lab recommends products containing active ingredients that help speed cell turnover and plump up collagen, such as retinol and peptide complexes. Our suggestion is to keep it simple for the morning skincare routine: cleanse the face, apply an antioxidant serum-preferably containing vitamin C, niacinamide, or polyphenols like reserveratol-to protect against free radicals causing early aging, says Dr. Lydia. Then, treat the skin with a light moisturizer and eye cream to give way to soft and fat skin, and of course, SPF 30 or higher to take care of protection from UV light.
For nighttime, Dr. Lydia recommends swapping out an eye cream and one facial product-serum or moisturizer-for retinol or retinoid, if the skin can take it, or peptides that stimulate collagen. “It’s also worth working in richer hydrating products at night to really help lock in moisture and support skin repair.” Last, “chemical exfoliants-like AHA or BHA-that rid the skin of dead cells and smooth out texture should be used once a week; just make sure it’s not on the same day as your retinol application,” she says.
What’s the Best Skincare Routine for Hyperpigmentation?
“If you have hyperpigmentation, the most important part of your daily routine is committing to daily sunscreen use,” says Dr. Lydia. “This will prevent future sun damage and skin darkening.” Other than the usual cleanse, moisturize and SPF, it’s vital to incorporate products with active ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid, arbutin and niacinamide into your routine. “These ingredients help fade dark spots by inhibiting melanin production and evening out pigmentation,” she says. “They are incorporated into serums, eye creams, and moisturizers to be used in both daytime and nighttime routines, and some can even be found in facial cleansers.” Because cleansers are washed off so quickly, just using a cleanser might not be very effective. Dr. Lydia says, “I recommend incorporating retinoids into one’s nighttime routine as they promote cell turnover and decrease pigmentation,” and exfoliating weekly with an AHA.
What if I get irritated from my routine?
“If you get any form of irritation, “go back to the basics: cleanse, moisturize, use SPF and repeat,” says Dr. Gohara. “Then slowly reintroduce products one at a time to see if you can identify a culprit.” Skin changes over time, remember-so what may have worked for your skin before, might not work now.
